Exotic Herbs and Plants in Mao Naga Cuisine - Part I

In this series, the post intends to inform readers about the varieties of plants and herbs that are traditionally used in Mao Naga cuisine. The representative pictures are for illustrative purposes and do not necessarily depict the same varieties that are cultivated or found in the Mao or surrounding areas. As the climate of the region and the hilly terrain favour the cultivation or growth of certain plants that are not widely relished in other cultures, some of them may appear exotic or even distasteful to some readers. However, that is the beauty of a cuisine, unique and different, though I don't talk much about the cuisine part here! Enjoy browsing through the page for a glimpse into the palate of the Mao Nagas.
Two of the most important and widely cultivated food plants used in Mao traditional cuisine are Ememeikobi (Collard) and Gusii (Chayote). These two plants are climatically suited to the Mao region.
Ememeikobi
(Variant names in Mao language – Kobibeso)
Ememeikobi or collards are basically a winter crop and form the staple vegetable of the people as the cold winter season makes it somewhat difficult to grow other food plants extensively. Almost all varieties of collards grown in the Mao areas have long stems. 
Common names – collard, collard greens;
Botanical name – Brassica oleracea, including many cultivars of the same species
On the left: Collard greens in the field

On the left: Sample of different varieties of collards
Collards are hardy plants which can grow in adverse conditions. Collard plants shown on the left depict healthy plants growing in a not so suitable place where some construction is going on. Yet the plant is least affected.
Picture source: Dr. Daili Neli






Gusii
Gusii or chayote is another plant which forms a staple food of the Maos almost throughout the year. Its green shoots called gusiizii are harvested beginning late March until it grows into lush vines when flowering begins. The fruits called gusiitho are harvested through June to as late as December. Although the vines may die out earlier, the fruits hang on and the winter sun-baked fruits are the most relished ones, which are picked and stored to last till sometimes in late January.
In winter when the vines have died out, the ground around its root is dug three to five feet deep to harvest the tubers (gusiikama). Its tubers have an uncanny resemblance to yam in look although its flesh feels softer and more starchy. It is a delicious food and has cultural significance due to its association with feasts and festivals.
Common names – chayote, cho-cho, chuchu, pear squash, vegetable pear, chouchoute, choko, pipinola, güisquil, christophene or christophine, mirliton or merleton, centinarja;
Botanical name – Sechium edule
On the left: Gusiithoh on the vines
Picture source: http://maisoncote.blogspot.in/2012/09/todays-chayote-harvest.html
On the left: Harvested green shoots or gusiizii of chayote
On the left: Sample of different varieties of chayote (not all of these are cultivated in the region)








Zhongchah
(Variant name in Mao language – Yongchak – adopted from Manipuri)
Another important plant, which is grown both for its cultural significance as a delicacy as well as for its economic value, is zhongchah or the bitter bean. Its tree may grow to great heights, and bears long and flat edible pods with bright green beans inside. It is eaten either in the form of tender pods with immature beans, mature beans still inside fresh and green pods or mature black seeds. Due to its strong smell which lingers in the mouth long after it is eaten, it is nicknamed the ‘stink bean.’
Common names – bitter bean, twisted cluster bean, stink bean, petai (Malaysian);
Botanical name – Parkia speciosa, Parkia javanica syn. Parkia roxburghii   
On the left: Zhongchah beans hanging on the tree  
Picture source: http://bif.uohyd.ac.in/nemedplant/search/getImage.php?id=EK56401566 
On the left: Zhongchah harvested for consumption









Ohro
(Variant name in Mao language – Mikriibi)
Within the Solanum genus of the nightshade family (Solanaceae) is included one of the most widely cultivated food crops in the world, ohro or potato. Mao area is traditionally known for the best varieties of potato grown in the lower reaches of the western hills above Mao Gate with its cool climate and black soils.
Common name – potato, aloo (Hindi);
Botanical name – Solanum tuberosum 
In the picture (left): Potato plant in the field
Picture source: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a7/Potato_plants.jpg 
On the left: Different varieties of potato









Golbira
(Variant names in Mao language – Kakhreishii)
Golbira or tomato is said to have come to Asia in the early 18th century. Fair enough, the name itself sounds foreign! As the name golbira has no meaning etymologically in the Mao language, it is also called by the name kakhreishi in more recent times. In earlier days, the most familiar variety was a cultivar of heirloom tomato mostly grown in the lowlands of Chobongho (Chowainu). The fruits are characteristically larger and have several ridges; however, they have a shorter shelf life. The advent of the hybrid varieties and their wider cultivation in the Mao areas began only recently, perhaps not earlier than the last two to three decades. 
But I have reasons to believe that cherry tomato might have predated the larger common tomato. Cherry tomato goes by a different name – khibopfokishii or just pfokishii – in Mao language and it has wider familiarity in traditional cuisine.
Common name – tomato;
Botanical name – Solanum lycopersicum
On the left: A sample of heirloom tomato






Shiikhokoso
(Variant name in Mao language – Shiikho)
Shiikhokoso or eggplant may be one of the few plants that have been there with us for a long time, perhaps dating back to the earliest times of our migration to the present land. It is learnt that, in early times, it was simply referred to as shiikho, without the suffix koso (meaning long) which became necessary later on as more cultivated species of the same family of plants came to the Mao people.
It is believed that eggplant originated from the Indian sub-continent and spread to the West through the Arabs. Sources also say that, in prehistory, the earliest cultivar might have been certain species of Solanum aethiopicum (species of shiikhokha) which underwent hybridization to form a variety of eggplants.
Varieties of brinjal or eggplant are cultivated in the Mao areas today.
Common names – eggplant, brinjal, brinjal eggplant, aubergine, melongene, guinea squash;
Botanical name – Solanum melongena
On the left: A sample of eggplant varieties





Obi
Obi or taro may be another plant whose cultivation dates back to very early times in our history. Traditionally, one of the staple vegetables, obi or taro has today been replaced by potato as the main source of vegetable carbohydrate. In earlier days, its corms or tuber was considered as the poor man’s meat.
While obi is properly the root or tuber, the plant is called biroh. The leaves and leaf stalks of certain species are also eaten. Different varieties are cultivated – bibviih (round taro), biso (long taro), bishu (pink variety). Raw taro is inedible or toxic and cause mild to severe itching on the skin which is also true when it is undercooked – we can feel it in the mouth. I have learnt that this is due to the presence of needle-like crystals (raphides of calcium oxalates); calcium oxalate is highly insoluble and contributes to kidney stones. Not all taro species are edible; inedible species are commonly called shiikriihbiroh or ovobiroh, the latter name so called for its use in preparing pig feeds with it.
Another kind of obi is the bijii or kosabi, known in English as the arrowleaf elephant ear. Although it is called obi in Mao language, it forms a separate genus which is usually not called taro. This plant might have been introduced in the Mao areas in the last century.
Common names – taro, taro root, arvi or arbi (Hindi);
Botanical name – Colocasia esculenta;
On the left: A sample of long variety of taro (biso)
Common name: arrowleaf elephant ear;
Botanical name – Xanthosoma sagittifolium
On the left: A sample of the bijii or arrowleaf elephant ear plant (Xanthosoma sagittifolium)
Some of the earliest plants that the Mao people began cultivating may be from the legume family. In the legume (Fabaceae or Leguminosae) family of plants, common species like the ones shown below are grown.

Matar
Matar or pea is one of the seasonal crops that grow well in the Mao areas. The best choice is the produce grown on the slopes of the hills west of Mao Gate, known for its particularly rich and sweet taste.
Common name - pea;
Botanical name - Pisum sativum
Pea plants bearing pea pods (left)
Picture source: http://www.photos-public-domain.com/2010/08/26/snow-peas-on-the-vine/
On the left: Pea plants flowering, in a home garden in Mao
Photo source: Dr. Daili Neli












Osiihrokhu
Once widely cultivated, it seems osiihrokhu or pigeon pea has mostly been abandoned for more economically valuable crops. It is eaten as a legume and sometimes used as a substitute for soybean in the making of the fermented hrokhumata or akhuni.
Common names - pigeon pea, Gandule bean, tropical green pea, no-eye pea, toor dal or arhar dal (Hindi);
Botanical name - Cajanus cajan 
Pigeon peas before harvesting (left)
Picture source: http://cdn.zmescience.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/piegeon-pea.jpg
On the left: Freshly harvested pigeon peas 
In Indian cuisine, the skin of the pea is removed which then becomes toor or arhar dal (left).








Hrokhu
Hrokhu or soyabean is a legume which forms an essential part of Mao Naga cuisine. Widely grown in the earlier days, hrokhu or soybean is now mainly bought from the market.
Common name - soybean or soya bean;
Botanical name - Glycine max
On the left: The seeds which are fermented to make hrokhumata (akhuni or akhone or axone in other Naga dialects)









Litotopha
(Variant name in Mao language – Litoshii)
A very hardy plant which grows throughout the year, litotopha or hyacinth bean has no specific season to harvest. All it needs is a support to climb around. A wide variety of them are cultivated in the land of the Maos.
Common names - hyacinth bean, dolichos bean, Indian bean, cavalance, seim, Egyptian bean;
Botanical name - Lablab pupureus or Dolichos lablab

A purple variety of hyacinth beans (left)
Green varieties of hyacinth bean (left)










Hawambi
A relatively late comer in the Mao areas, hawambi or broad bean is widely cultivated as a garden crop. The bean pods are specially relished as ingredients in chutney flavoured with fermented fish.
Common names - broad bean, fava bean, faba bean, field bean, bell bean, tic bean;
Botanical name - Vicia faba)
On the left: Broad beans on their plants
Picture source: http://camel-csa.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/Broad-beans-28-06-09-cropped-2.jpg





Litaiprii
A summer or monsoon crop, litaiprii or long bean is widely grown as a vegetable crop. A variety of long beans, including the pale green variety and the dark maroon variety, are grown. Its seeds can be of different colours. Traditionally, the plant is mostly cultivated for its green pods as a vegetable crop and harvesting of mature seeds or beans is limited.
Common names - cowpea, long bean;
Botanical name - Vigna unguiculata
Picture on the left: Cowpea plant flowering and bearing bean pods
Picture source: http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/showimage/119519/#b






Litaipriikoso
Litaipriikoso or yardlong bean tastes much the same as litaiprii, except that it differs in the length of the bean pods and the particularly softer and somewhat puffy pods. It is a widely grown vegetable in Mao areas.
Common names - yardlong bean, long-podded cowpea, asparagus bean, snake bean, bora, Chinese long bean;
Botanical name - Vigna unguiculata subsp. Sesquipedalis
Picture of yardlong beans (left); they do not reach a yard in length, in fact
Picture source: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/CropOp/en/spec_veg/pea_bean/yard.html




Shiikriidziitho and Batoshii
Shiikriidziitho and batoshii are both common beans and they come in a variety of shapes in pods and colours in the beans. Shiikriidziitho plants usually need a pole prop for its vines to grow healthily while batoshi plants do not grow so high and therefore need little or no external support. Common beans have long been grown and used in Mao traditional cuisine. 
Common name - common beans or kidney beans of a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors -  pink, red, black, white, mottled, etc.;
Botanical name - Phaseolus vulgaris 
Picture of a common bean plant (left)
Picture source: https://store.seedcatalog.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=226
Varieties of common beans (left)









Hrotho
(Variant names in Mao language – Ohrotho, Hatho, Naga dal)
One of the staple food crops, hrotho or adzuki bean is considered as the Naga dal. The varieties cultivated in Mao or Naga areas are probably related to the azuki or adzuki bean (Vigna angularis). However, unlike the typical azuki beans of East Asia, the most common variety of hrotho is whitish in colour. Other varieties of grey and mottled colours are also found. It has a more elongated shape and tastes sweeter than its cousin hralatho, a variety of azuki, described below. 
Common name – a variety of azuki beans probably (plant taxonomists or botanists may help please);
Botanical name - various species belonging to the Vigna genus of beans
On the left: A sample of hrotho or Naga dal
Although the name azuki or adzuki bean is associated with a particular bean type known by that name in Japan and other countries in East Asia, it is also known that there are subspecies that are widely grown in the Himalayan belt and Northeast India. The East Asian variety of azuki is uniformly red in colour while other sub-species like those grown in the Naga areas are black, gray or mottled in colour. Hralatho differs from hrothro in its stubby rounded shape while the latter is more elongated; the latter is also sweeter. It needs support for its vine to grow while hrotho plant does not grow too high and needs no extra support.  
Common name – azuki or adzuki beans;
Botanical name – sub-species of the azuki or adzuki bean (Vigna angularis) shown in the picture on the left







Ozhehrotho
(Variant name in Mao language – Hrothokatei)
Ozhehrotho or black gram is usually considered a poor cousin of the bigger hrotho. With less yields than its bigger cousin, it is rarely cultivated in the Mao areas but mostly grows in the wild and harvested. In Indian cuisine, it is one of the common pulses, and sometimes referred to as black lentil although it is not a lentil species.
Common names - black gram, black lentil, urad bean, urad dal (Hindi); 
Botanical name - Vigna mungo
Picture of black grams or urad beans on the left
Picture source: http://tropicalfruitandveg.com/images/urad.jpg
A sample of ozhehrotho or black gram plant










Hrothomadei
Traditionally, hrothomadei or green gram is not a cultivated crop in the Mao areas, perhaps due to its small size compared to the bigger hrotho which makes its cultivation an unattractive proposition. Like its cousin, ozhehrotho, its growth in the wild is known although its use in traditional cuisine is not notable.
Common names - green gram, golden gram, mung or moong bean, mung or moong dal (Hindi);
Botanical name - Vigna radiata
Green gram dehiscing while still on the plant (left)
Picture source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mung_bean_(Vigna_radiata)_Dired_open_Pod_in_Hong_Kong.JPG
In the picture (left): Processed and unprocessed moong – from left: whole moong (moong sabut), split green moong with skin (moong chilka) and split washed or polished yellow moong (moong dal)
Picturesource:http://www.manjulaskitchen.com/2008/07/23/moong-dal/ 







Ozhau or Ozhavu
In Mao culture, ozhau or mustard has mostly been cultivated traditionally as a leafy vegetable. The leaves have a characteristic nutty flavour like that found in its seeds. The use of its seeds, roasted and ground, in traditional cuisine is also known, though not so common. The most relished ones are those grown in moist and manure-rich soils, especially on the sidelines of cattle sheds, which produce large, soft leaves and succulent stalks. The other type, called ozhau zharoh (Brassica nigra), mostly grows in the wild, and is bitter and has stronger taste.
Common names – mustard greens, Indian mustard, Chinese mustard, leaf mustard, sarson (Hindi);
Botanical name – Brassica juncea and Brassica nigra (ozhau zharoh)
A sample of mustard green plant (left)
Picture source: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/CropOp/en/spec_veg/brassicas/leafhm.html





Kobizhau
Kobizhau or canola plant is a relatively late comer. It is a cultivar of rapeseed (Brassica napus L.). Due to its hybridization, it has mixed characteristics and similarity with mustard in stalks and flowers and its slight resemblance in taste with collards, which led it to be called kobizhau, a combination of kobi (collard) and ozhau (mustard). It is widely grown as a leafy vegetable in Mao areas, although it is grown more for its oil seeds the world over. (Traditionally, the use of vegetable oil was not known until outside contact brought the culture; animal fat was the main source of fat in traditional cuisine. I intend to visit this topic in another post).
Common names – canola, rapeseed, rape, oilseed rape, rapa, rappi, sarson or gobhi sarson (Hindi);
Botanical name – cultivar of Brassica napus
Sample of canola plant flowering (left)
Picture source: http://www.flowersofindia.net/catalog/slides/Gobhi%20Sarson.html






Modziivu
Modziivu or lady’s finger is another food crop which might have been introduced in the last century in the Mao areas. Although it is cultivated mostly in moist and warm climes, especially in lowland valleys, this food crop has become popular in Mao cuisine.
Common names – lady’s finger, okra (US), bhindi (Hindi);
Botanical name – Abelmoschus esculentus; also called Hibiscus esculentus
A picture of lady’s finger plant bearing fruits (left)
Picture source: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/682501

In this post, some of the common food plants have been shown. Readers may comment and submit recipes for each of the plants shown here. In the next post in this series will be included some of the exotic plants and herbs that are traditionally used in Mao Naga cuisine.
Disclaimer: The pictures used in this Blog post are mostly obtained from the internet and are assumed to be in the public domain. They are used here strictly for non-commercial purposes. However, if there is any issue of copyright, it may be addressed to the author at eiferpiku@gmail.com. For reuse of the pictures published herein, kindly refer to the copyright information in the original sources given in the source links; or to the author wherever indicated as such.

Comments

  1. The content of this post has been enriched by the comments and suggestions of friends given in their comments on a Facebook post. It has been updated with variant names in Mao language and more content. Thanks to all the contributors. In fact, this series has been enriched by a list of plants and herbs that was circulated for editing on Facebook; many of the leads were received from there. Credit goes to many people, especially to Kaisa Chakre for her initiative and resourcefulness.

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  2. It would be nice if you coined words for golbira, kobi, matar, hawambi, etc. That would increase our vocabulary as well. Like the page and like your modziivu (lady's finger). great job.

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    Replies
    1. You are right, Aji. Some of the plants do not have native names although they are very much part of our socio-economic and cultural life. Whatever the reason for this lack, it will be something useful to find a term/name to refer to it in our own language. Golbira is simply referred to as rashii in Chowainu, but that's too general. It is both a fruit and a vegetable . So can it be rashiivu? Or perhaps, shiikhokomoh? There is already shiikhokakhrei for another plant although golbira is truly that. Matar, kobi, hawambi... let me think about it.

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  3. Simply love it.I am also of the opinion that we should come up with our dialect for the ones we do not have. Once it is introduce people will assimilate gradually. This is important as it will enhance our vocabulary as suggested & as well for posterity.

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  4. It could have been that many of the items used today were introduced lately (through contact) and thus felt more at ease to directly borrow the word itself. as you have taken this bold endeavour i felt it is your duty to give some more labour even to straighten some wrongs and also some creativity in improving our vocab. rashii could be too general yes. rashiivu or any other term could be ok but don't replace or change the old vocabulary with a new identity-that will only create confusion and rejection.

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  5. Yes, the reason we do not have a native name for sevral plants is basically because they were introduced in the last 2 centuries, perhaps some of them not even a century old. Secondly, I think certain plants that came late but have relatives in our area before they came are accommodated much more easily. For example the shiikho family, kakhrei, kakha, koso, etc., which I think are not all endemic to our area, especially tamarillo. Ohro might be a dissected name from Bihro (Yam, a native) because conventional knowledge says that potato was introduced from outside. For new names then, I think we should begin with as variant names. A name that catches the fancy of people may gradually be adopted widely; even otherwise, a name in our language will still be part of our heritage.

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    Replies
    1. very true. hearing bihro for the first time...

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