Exotic Herbs and Plants in Mao Naga Cuisine – Part II

In continuation of Part I in this series, this post will highlight some of the plants and herbs that are not common in many cultures of the world, or at least not common traditionally. In modern times, every component of culture, including food habits, has been affected, modified or altered by influences from other cultures due to the easy mode of contact and interactions facilitated by fast means of communications and transport. This post contains some plants and herbs that are not well known, especially in Indian cuisine. Many of those plants and herbs which lack familiarity in Indian cuisine are well known in East and South-east Asia which is not incidental considering the close affinities of culture that our society shares with those in the regions, especially South-east Asia.

Of the plants known by the name of pepper, some very valuable species are found in the North-eastern region of India. They are commonly used in Mao cuisine and relished as delicacies.

Kosakoshii

(Variant names in Mao language – Kosokoshii, Osiikoshii, Koshiimovuo)

In the Capsicum genus of the nightshade family (Solanaceae), top of the chart that comes to mind is none other than the kosakoshii, otherwise known as the king of chili. This variety of ghost pepper has been hailed as the world’s hottest chili at one point of time. Apart from this pride of place among similar species, kosakoshii has more important culinary uses. The Naga dish is not complete without kosakoshii, and everything that is considered tasty has to have the ghost pepper as one of the ingredients, in varying amounts according to taste. In earlier days, hard-working village people in the busiest of season are known to have carried this chili along with a bit of salt to savour their rice with no other curry for lunch! However, apart from this chili, several other species of chili pepper are grown as well.

Common names – Naga ghost pepper, Naga king chili, Naga bhut jolokia, bhut jolokia, raja mirchi, red Naga chili;

Botanical name – a cultivar of Capsicum chinense, considered a genetic interspecies hybrid of mostly Capsicum chinense with some Capsicum frutescens genes

On the left: Picture of Naga ghost pepper and its plant

Picture source: http://blogs.laweekly.com/squidink/2010/03/refining_fire_chiles_bhut_jolo.php

The rugged look of the fruit of Naga ghost pepper (left)

Picture source: www.nagafoods.com/naga_king_chilly

In a test of strength in 2011, the top contenders for the title of ‘hottest chili’ are shown in the picture on the left.

Picture source: http://digginginthedriftless.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/untitled-2.gif

Opfu kosopro

(Variant name in Mao language – Rakiwo)

Opfu kosopro or mint grows so well in kitchen gardens or on the sides of fields. Traditionally used for its cooling properties and a therapeutic relief for stomachache (from which it got its name in Mao language) and chest pain, it has become one of the most widely used herbs for culinary purposes.

Common names – spearmint, pudina;

Botanical name – Mentha spicata

Picture showing spearmint on the left

Picture source: http://www.chirinka.com.au/shop/body-care/spearmint

Rakipro

(Variant name in Mao language – Phadigom – adopted from Manipuri)

Though it is not certain when rakipro or coriander came to the land of the Maos, I assume that it is a relatively late comer in the Mao areas. My assumption is based on its being a cultivated crop and that there are scarce references to it in traditional Mao cuisine. Today, it has become one of the favourites among flavouring herbs. However, the seed is not widely used as a condiment until recently.

Common names – coriander, cilantro, Chinese parsley, dhania (Hindi);

Botanical name – Coriandrum sativum

Picture of coriander growing in Mao area (left)

Picture source: Dr. Daili Neli

Both in terms of medicinal value and taste, the Allium genus of plants are among the highly valued. The following characteristics may be used to put the species into three groups. Of the species that we cultivate in the North-east region of India, the three groups are: (1) the onion group including its close relatives such as the scallion and shallot with hollow tubular leaves and layered bulb; (2) the garlic group with bulb containing separable fleshy cloves and flat leaves; and (3) the third group with features such as flat leaves that extend to the base as in the onion species but without a bulb.

Within the first group, the most prized is Kopfiipro.

Kopfiipro

The quintessential tastemaker and the favourite complement in many kinds of dish, kopfiipro or Chinese onion has high demands and is expensive. Since it grows as a spring or rabi crop, it is harvested in June-July. Fresh harvests are eaten raw or cooked. To make it last for the rest of the year, it is dried in the open or on a grill high above the hearth, traditionally. The best tasting are the ‘hearth-dried’ ones.

Common names – Chinese onion, Chinese scallion, Japanese scallion, Rakkyo (Japanese), Oriental onion;

Botanical name – Allium chinense

Sample of Chinese onion on the left

Picture source: http://blog.goo.ne.jp/nabanatei/e/d07a0a1fb2e54448b41cc7e52d7b4d91

On the left: Bulbs of kopfiipro or Chinese onion after harvest when the leaves have dried and fallen off

Picture source: http://www.botanicayjardines.com/allium-chinense/

Shiimerii

(Variant name in Mao language – Shiimoro)

Mostly cultivated as a garden plant, shiimerii or scallion is used widely in traditional Mao cuisine. It is an important food crop that is used in many kinds of dish. Not to be confused with shiimoro or garlic, although some people call it shiimoro as well, shiimerii refers to a particular variety of scallion. In common usage, scallion covers a wide range of related species, including shallot and the green plants of onion (spring onion) from which shiimerii is differentiated. It is an aromatic vegetable, with green and succulent tubular leaves and white bulbs, but not as prominent as in onion.

The variety the Mao people cultivate is probably the Welsh onion, also called the Japanese bunching onion.

Common names – scallion, spring onion;

Botanical name – Allium fistulosum

Picture showing scallion on the left

Picture source: http://blog.gardening-tools-direct.co.uk/2012_05_01_archive.html

On the left: Fresh harvested scallion before forming bulb

Picture source: http://www.condorseed.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Onion-Bunching-Heshiko.jpg

Piaz

Though onion is an essential food item today, piaz or onion was not a traditional Naga food crop until recent times. Today, it is mostly cultivated as spring onion. Most of the supplies of mature onion bulb come through the market from other places.

Common names – onion, bulb onion or common onion;

Botanical name – Allium cepa

On the left: Picture of onion plants

Picture source: http://www.yourgardenshow.com/plants/8675-Allium-cepa

On the left: Onion bulb in various dimensions

Picture source: http://www.ehow.com/info_10045682_red-onions-propagate.html

The second group of Allium genus of plants includes:

Shiimoro

(Variant name in Mao language – Shiimoro khekhokho)

The second most widely cultivated crop in the Allium genus of plants, shiimoro or garlic has served as a condiment, a traditional medicine and for purposes that onion today serves in frying. Its plantation begins in the wet summer months and it is harvested in December-January and is thus a kharif crop. Its leaves are also eaten as a favourite vegetable either in the form of salad or in dish.

Traditionally, the garlic variety grown in Mao areas is the purplish hardneck variety, though softneck varieties are also grown. When mature, hardneck varieties send out a scape, a hardy stalk that carries the flower; softneck varieties don’t have scapes.

Common name – garlic;

Botanical name – Allium sativum

On the left: A sample of the variety of garlic grown in Mao areas

Picture source: Dr. Daili Neli

Sample of the purple variety of garlic when harvested (left)

Picture source: http://www.henriettesherbal.com/pictures/p01/pages/allium-sativum-6.htm

Shiimoro kajii

Shiimoro kajii or elephant garlic is not widely cultivated and not a traditional Mao or Naga food crop. A closer relative of leek than garlic in its properties, it is much milder than garlic in its taste. Its cultivation in the Mao areas is relatively recent, perhaps not earlier than three-four decades.

Common name – elephant garlic;

Botanical name – Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum

On the left: Picture of elephant garlic

Picture source: http://eatingchile.blogspot.in/2009_11_01_archive.html

A sample of elephant garlic plant (left)

Picture source: http://www.biosaatgut.eu/gem%FCse/wurzelgem%FCse/blaugr%FCner+herbstlauch++++++blaugr%FCner+herbstlauch+++allium+ampeloprasum+var+porrum+

The third group in the Allium genus includes:

Vuni

(Variant name in Mao language – Vuni kajii)

A traditional food crop and widely cultivated, vuni or Hooker chives is one of the favourite vegetables in Mao cuisine. It is either eaten raw in the form of spicy salad or cooked with other vegetables. Its roots are also highly priced.

The dried ones called vunikih are the most favourite. Vunikih is prepared by harvesting the leaves and, after cleaning, leaving them in a basket to turn yellow, and just short of going bad, they are boiled and then dried in the sun. It has a rich aroma which is enhanced through the process.

Common names – Hooker chives, maroi napakpi (Manipuri);

Botanical name – Allium hookeri; related to Chinese leek, Chinese chives, Asian chives, garlic chives or oriental chives, known by the botanical name Allium tuberosum

On the left: Sample of Hooker chives

Picture source: http://www.flowersofindia.net/catalog/slides/Hooker%20Chives.html

Vuni or Hooker chives growing as potted plants (left)

Picture source: http://showyourplant.com/Allium_hookeri/

Samples of the root of vuni or Allium hookeri (left)

Picture source: http://alliumhookeri.en.ec21.com/Allium_Hookeri--6706870_6706871.html

Vuni vushi

(Variant name in Mao language – Vuni kati)

Traditionally harvested from the wild, vuni vushi or Chinese chives is now increasingly a cultivated food plant. The taste is akin to vuni or Allium hookeri, though its taste and aroma is stronger. Occurring with smaller and flat blades of leaves, it is eaten mostly raw in salads. When introduced to a fertile ground, it spreads and grows very luxuriantly during the wet summer months.

Common names – Chinese chives, Chinese leek, maroi nakuppi (Manipuri);

Botanical name – Allium odorum

Chinese chives growing in a garden (left)

Picture source: http://alobacsi.vn/2012020210152129p0c347/rau-he-tri-xuat-tinh-som.htm

Okhreiu or Okhreivu

Okhreiu or roselle is a tropical plant and traditionally harvested from the wild in Mao areas. It is now an increasingly cultivated plant. Both the leaves and the red calyces are edible, and are eaten fresh or in dried form. A soup prepared with dried roselle, especially the calyces, is a favourite tonic. It is known to act as a diuretic, mild laxative and anti-hypertensive.

Common names – roselle, rosella;

Botanical name – Hibiscus sabdariffa

On the left: Samples of roselle plant with flowers; the red sepals form the calyx

Picture source: http://mylittlevegetablegarden.blogspot.in/2011/01/growing-roselle-when-they-bloom.html

In the Solanum genus of plants are some of the most exotic species which are widely cultivated in the region.

Shiikhokakhrei

Nothing enlivens the spirit of a Naga more than a hot soup, chutney or dish, flavoured with the Naga king chili! One of the ingredients that best go together with king chili is shiikhokakhrei or tamarillo, either in soup, chutney or dish form. Better if the combination is enhanced with bitter ball and Chinese onion!

I think this plant has been there with us before the Kiwis discovered it and seem to be trying to appropriate it by naming it tamarillo! Better stick to tree tomato if such is the intent. Don’t be serious.  

Common names – tamarillo, tree tomato, Dutch eggplant;

Botanical name – Solanum betaceum, also called Cyphomandra betacea

A sample of orange variety of tamarillo (left)

Picture source: http://www.kolaytarim.com/node/1794

On the left: The red variety of tamarillo

Picture source: http://permaculturenorth.org.au/2012_News_Nov

Shiikhokha or Shiikhokakha

Shiikhokha is mildly bitter and appropriate called the bitter ball. This food crop must have been around in the region for centuries as it forms an important ingredient in Mao cuisine.

Common names – bitter ball, bitter eggplant, jiló, scarlet eggplant, Ethiopian eggplant, garden eggs, bitter tomato, apple eggplant;

Botanical name – various cultivars of the Solanum aethiopicum and Solanum gilo

On the left: This variety is from the West African country of Liberia, closely resembling the variety grown in Mao areas.

Picture source: http://www.cookhereandnow.com/cookhereandnow/2008/11/farmers-market-watch-november-8th.html

Compare the above variety with the one shown on the left which is the Mao variety.

Picture source: Author

The two pictures (left and below) show two different varieties of the Brazilian jiló (Solanum gilo). This plant is reportedly originally from Africa and brought to Brazil with the slave trade. One is called comprido verde claro (translating to long, light green in English). The second type, called morro redondo (round in English), is more bitter than the former.

On the left: A variety of Brazilian jiló, called morro redondo

Picture source: http://www.worldcrops.org/crops/Jilo.cfm

Ora shiikhokha

(Variant name in Mao language – Modoa shiikhokha)

No bigger than the pea, ora shiikhokha or small bitter ball is even more bitter than its larger cousin, the bitter ball. However, when the first sensation of bitterness passes, a trace of smattering sweetness lingers in the mouth. It is mostly used for making soup along with other vegetables, especially potato, tomato and Chinese onion or kopfiipro. One of my favourites!

There are two varieties, or species I should say, found in the Mao areas. One is the cultivated ora shiikhokha, as small as a pea, which is a cultivar of Solanum indicum. The other is found in the wild and slightly bigger than the former, which is commonly used in South-east Asian countries (Solanum torvum). Though ora shiikhokha properly refers to the first and modoa shiikhokha refers to the second, both the names are sometimes used for the cultivated Solanum indicum species of small bitter ball.

Common names – small bitter ball, pea eggplant, devil's fig, prickly nightshade, shoo-shoo bush, wild eggplant, pea aubergine;

Botanical name – various cultivars of Solanum indicum and Solanum torvum syn. Solanum ferrugieum Jacq., Solanum mayanum Lundell, Solanum verapazense Standl. & Steyerm.

On the left: A sample of ora shiikhokha or small bitter ball found in Mao areas

Picture source: Author

Plant of modoa shiikhokha, another species of small bitter ball (left)

Picture source: http://gardeningwithwilson.com/2010/01/31/solanum-trvum/

That’s the end of Part II. Look out for Part III.

Disclaimer: The pictures used in this Blog post are mostly obtained from the internet and are assumed to be in the public domain. They are used here strictly for non-commercial purposes. However, if there is any issue of copyright, it may be addressed to the author at eiferpiku@gmail.com. For reuse of the pictures published herein, kindly refer to the copyright information in the original sources given in the source links; or to the author wherever indicated as such.